Guayaquil, September 15, 2018
Under an interchange – sky of concrete that rumbles – the merchants pack up their treasures, trinkets from China or ten-dollar jeans. The iron shutters fall like eyelids. The street vendors launch the word as if it were the thing:
– ¡Botellas de agua!
– ¡Cepillos de dientes!
– ¡Jugo de naranja!
Trash – paper, plastic, aluminum – whirls at the feet of the last passersby.
I walk in the quarter of the peluquerías. Blue-white-red helices. The hairdressers replace the bars. Chile street is a capillary fiesta. The crowds spill over onto the sidewalks. In the salons the chairs spin, the hair flies off. Enormous scissors fly through the bush. Clippers shave the temples. Straight razors scrape the dry skins. Oh the tawny hair of the equatorial heads! Greasy locks fly up to the ceiling like small flying mammals. The floor is an invasion of lemmings. It copulates and clings to the barbers’ ankles. It spreads out into the street. It flies off in soft twists that smell of shea and coconut.
Under the tropical wind of the hair dryers and the salon hoods, women’s eyelids dream of a supple and silky world.